Picture Smocking Tutorial-Part 2

Easter is around the corner and will be here before we know it!
Smocking is synonymous with Easter and bunnies....

Today's blog is a tutorial to help with the picture smocking that is so very popular.
Let me first say that you must know how to do a basic cable stitch before trying picture smocking.
If you aren't comfortable with this basic smocking stitch, I'd recommend practicing more geometric smocking before moving on.

If you have mastered the basic cable stitch come on along!

After you have blocked your piece (see tutorial here) smocking can begin!

I like to "backsmock" my piece first to keep my pleats nice and tight and evenly aligned.

This is simply cable stitches on each row in floss color that matches your fabric.  

You'll see knots showing.  Why? This is the back--I don't want any knots to go through to the front.

After all the "prep" work is done, the actual "coloring" with the thread can begin!

Some smockers wait and do this step last....this is just my personal preference.

(I think it also gets the plain stuff done first and I can enjoy the creative stitching and be ready to put it into an outfit!)

Pay special attention to the starting point of your particular "plate" or smocking pattern.  For illustration sake, I'm using the smocking plate "Baby Brown Owls" by Cross Eyed Cricket. 

You'll see I use a highlighter,  a magnetic cross stitch board and magnet strips covered in painter's tape with an arrow drawn with a sharpie.

Per the instructions, I smock the cable stitches on row 1, 2 and 7 1/2  in the colors on the instructions.

Next we follow the instructions for cable stitches that are "stacked" that form something like bricks in a wall to "color" our pictures.  It is very much a premeditated system; staying in rows, stacking our cables so they match in the overall scheme of things to create a picture...thus "picture smocking".

According to my smocking plate, my first cable stitch to touch is a "down" cable preceded by an "up" cable.  It comes in from the left edge 4 pleats.  I usually use the already stitched cables to find the correct spot.  (sometimes it is necessary to "fudge" if I have miscounted in previous stitches)  My first "up" cable will begin one pleat in front of the green "up" cable on row 2.

This picture shows the correct placement for my up cable stitch.

 The thread comes up in the valley, make an "up" cable.

 The tail is "down" so your next cable is a down cable.

Your down cable should touch or "kiss" (my saying in classes I teach) the previous up cable.  Think about kissing....your heads move - one goes one way, the other the other way.  In this case it is a down cable matching an up cable.   This is a good way to check for errors!  If the tail isn't ready to lay across the previous row's stitch, you've either miscounted and are stacking at the wrong point OR you are getting ready to do the wrong type of cable!!

Sorry for the blurry pic but you'll see the down cable nestles nicely on top of the previous row's up cable.  The tail is up high ready for and up cable.

So I completed the required number of cables in a row right on top of row 2.  See how the down cables touch the previous row's up cables forming a stack? The up cables form the base for another row of stitching.

I need to change colors to form the flower, so I push the needle down in the valley where the tail just came up.

Turn it over and tie off.  (Notice my "honking" knots!  they won't show and they make me feel secure!)  no pun intended....ha ha!

To begin the next color, I push the needle up in the same valley, close to the same spot I tied off in.

Can you figure out what stitch comes next based on the previous row?

An up cable!  Then the pink "kisses" the brown threads just as before!  So I finish with the flower cables.

Check the chart again and notice there is a white spot or a blank between the "pink" and beginning the rest of the green leaf on the other side.  See my needle pointing to the spot?? What should happen here?  Skip a row and begin a green "up" cable so that two up cables are sitting side by side.

Look closely and you can see the little piece of white below the pink stitch?  I'm coming in from the back into the valley next to the pink up cable to start a green up cable.

Finish the cable stitches as directed in instructions.  See the space of white?

Now use your highlighter on a copied smocking plate.  (Never mark on your originals!)

Turn your magnetic board up side down and turn the arrow so that it is pointing up AND turn your smocking up side down to match! We are ready to do our second row of picture smocking!  

Starting again at the left in the correct spot per your smocking plate and begin again.  A closer view of my plate indicates a down cable hanging out by itself.

The next cable up cable "kisses" the row above.  I'm right on track!

Continue with your stitches, then mark them off and flip the magnetic board back right side up as well as the arrow magnet and your insert.

Moving right along to finish the other picture smocking leaves and flowers.  See how nicely the others look?  Remember to flip the board and insert for each row.  This is really handy if you need to get up for any reason and need to find your place again.  (potty breaks can be gruesome if you lose your spot....what about another cup of coffee?)

Some plates come with a diagram showing how many cables are done per row.  This comes in handy. I have even used colored pencils to color in my color choices to speed up my stitching or if I've changed the color palette to match my fabric.

TIPS:

• Notice my finger placement.  Only concentrate on the area within your fingers.  I usually roll the left side up and let the right side dangle.  As I move along I continue to roll the left edge up to make it easier to handle.
• My stitches aren't loose but aren't tight either.  Think relaxed sewing.  You want them full enough to cover the space but not loose.  If they are too tight, white (or your background color) will show  between your stitches.  Don't worry if they aren't perfect to begin with.  My first piece shows background in between but I did it, my daughter wore it and it is hanging in my closet waiting for grands!  Practice makes perfect!
• Use 4 strands of floss that have been separated and put back together.
• For your first attempt at picture smocking, try something with few color changes and/or something that is small like pictured.  Perhaps a border with picture smocked flowers or other items that will be simple to learn.

Try not to catch the gathering threads in your stitches.  Makes for quite tedious work to pull them out at the time to construct.

 A closeup of correct picture smocking.

All done!

How did you do?

What did you select to smock as your first project?

UPDATE:  ATTRIBUTION FOR THE SMOCKING PLATE:  http://www.crosseyedcricketsmocking.com/owls.htm

Always in Stitches!

Renee

P.S.All tutorials, information and images are the property of Renee Galloway at Ney Ney's Nest and are intended for personal use only.  Feel free to re-blog, pin, share with attribution to Ney Ney's Nest.  For all other purposes, please contact me at reneegalloway@me.com.  Thanks!

Cross Christening Gown

I hope you are having a Happy Easter!  I've been waiting to share a project I helped a student smock and then I constructed.  Her first grand baby was baptized this weekend, so now I can finally share the pictures!!!!


We first met and scoured through pages of Sew Beautiful to brainstorm and come up with a plan for her christening gown.  Since she wanted to be able to let more than one grandchild wear it and create an heirloom appropriate for either a little boy or little girl, we decided to keep the color neutral as well as any "frills".  Although we both know that lace is appropriate in either gender's christening gown, her menfolk though differently.

The cross and trinity was to be the theme of the gown, so I located some Swiss embroidery with the trinity circles and cross.  Since the only color is came in was white, and we had chosen ivory sateen batiste, I tea-dyed it.  (See this blog post Tea Staining For a Vintage Look)

In order to have the sleeves set with the tea stained insertion, I had to sew in the insertion prior to pleating.  I used a twin needle to make the pin tucks above and below the line of insertion.

In choosing a template, we liked various elements of several templates, so we merged them together to come up with an original smocked gown.  She wanted to have a "cross" theme representing the trinity.  I pleated ivory sateen batiste and together we blocked it into a bishop styled dress.  

After Brenda, my student, completed the smocking, I began the remaining construction.  More pin tucks and insertion made antiqued with the tea stained technique I blogged on earlier. ( Let me state that I did ALL the tea staining at the same time so it would all match)

Next came the ruffle at the bottom of the skirt that was also Swiss edging with the trinity/cross theme that had been tea dyed with all the other insertion.  It was gathered and attached with entredeux that had been thrown in the tea pot (LITERALLY)with all the other insertions.

The dress was finished with a self placket and cast on loops over antique mother of pearl buttons I scooped up at an antique store in Birmingham, AL on an excursion one day with my daughter. 

(Antique Excursion blogpost)

Brenda had the idea to add a monogram with her granddaughter's initials and birthdate on the ruffle.  We ARE Southern, after all!  What Southern girl wouldn't have her monogram on her garment?????

Finally completed and ready for a picture!

It looks even better on it's proud, little owner on this Easter weekend!

Sweet Georgia peach blossoms and sweetness in her christening gown!

Sew It Goes!

Renee

Scalloped Hem Tutorial

I recently made a custom dress from the popular Pascale pattern featuring a scalloped hem adapted by Kathy Dykstra.  Today I thought I'd share my secret for an easy scalloped hem.



 

First, select a contrasting fabric for the scallop and coordinating bias.  I purchased my bias since it was going to be a solid color, but you can make bias tape out of fabric if desired. (a good idea for a  future blog tutorial!)

Cut out your skirt pattern pieces as required for your particular pattern.   I used the Pascale pattern but any pattern can be adapted.  I had a template for the scallop provided in Sew Beautiful  #141 with Kathy Dykstra's adaptation.

[caption id="attachment_298" align="alignleft" width="400"] All supplies for a particular project.[/caption]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A template would be easy to make with the curved edge of a dinner plate or bowl, quilting templates or from a cutting board.

Trace the scallops onto your fabric with a fabric pen.  When it comes time to cut the contrasting scallop out of the fabric, DON'T CUT THE SCALLOPS but cut straight across the top of the scallops with about an inch of extra fabric at the tips of the scallops.

[caption id="attachment_388" align="aligncenter" width="400"] Cut a straight edge on both sides of constrasting fabric[/caption]

After your skirt is constructed following your pattern directions, pin the right side of the future scallop to the wrong side of  the bottom edge of your skirt.  Sew a seam along the bottom of the skirt with a seam allowance specified by your pattern.

[caption id="attachment_389" align="aligncenter" width="400"] Stitch along marked scallop after sewing the bottom skirt to the contrasting fabric.[/caption]

Then turn the contrasting future scallop to right side, iron seam allowance  and stitch along the marked scallop you made earlier with the fabric pen.  CAREFULLY cut off the straight edge of the contrasting fabric by following close to your newly stitched scallop.

Now it is time to add the bias tape!  I discovered fabric basting glue recently and LOVE it!  I started by securing the bias tape to a "slope" on the trimmed scallop edge with a pin.  Squeeze a small beaded line of glue along the "slope" and press the bias into place.  I also secured by sticking a pin into my ironing board while I continued to work on placing the bias.  It was dry enough to move as I worked my way around the skirt.  So much easier than pins!

[caption id="attachment_390" align="aligncenter" width="400"] Use fabric basting glue to help with the bias.[/caption]

Continue gluing and pinning. If you've never mitered a corner, don't freak out!  It's easy!  I use my seam ripper and place it at the top of the scallop point on top of the bias tape.

[caption id="attachment_415" align="aligncenter" width="400"] Use the seam ripper to help with the mitered edge.[/caption]

Holding the bias tape with the seam ripper, use the other hand to fold the bias tape back.

(Note the mashed fingernail? ALWAYS turn serger off when threading....:)  After the first fold, bring the bias tape back onto itself and headed down the scallop.

[caption id="attachment_417" align="aligncenter" width="400"] Fold the bias back on itself.[/caption]

Adjust the fold so the "seam" made in the bias, or the mitered corner, is straight and sitting on top of the tip of the scallop.  I use my seam ripper tip to hold the bottom in place while adjusting.

[caption id="attachment_418" align="aligncenter" width="400"] A little dab will do it![/caption]

Here's where the oh-so-wonderful basting glue comes in handy!  Put a little bead under the fold.  Pin directly into the ironing board and continue down the "valley" of the scallop.  By the time you get ready to shift the skirt it will be dry enough to move.  Don't worry about any excess glue sticking out, it dries clear and washes out!  If I tried to pin that mitered point, I'd have buckles and difficulty sewing a straight stitch .  The glue keeps everything nice and neat and makes sewing straight stitches a breeze!

[caption id="attachment_419" align="aligncenter" width="400"] A completed scallop with mitered bias trim![/caption]

Finish gluing the bias and then take to machine and stitch close to each edge.  That is, a straight stitch a scant 1/8" from top edge of bias trim and a scant 1/8" from bottom edge of bias trim.  Remember to leave the needle in the fabric at the tip of the scallop, lift the pressure foot and turn the fabric to go down the slope of the next scallop.  Repeat all the way around the skirt.

[caption id="attachment_420" align="aligncenter" width="400"] I also trimmed the yoke.[/caption]

I used the same technique for the yoke bottom. (In this photo the trim has been glued but not sewn.)

[caption id="attachment_421" align="aligncenter" width="400"] My completed yoke.[/caption]

 

Viola!  My version of the Pascale dress.  This dress was a custom order for a very special birthday girl....

[caption id="attachment_422" align="aligncenter" width="400"] Front of Pink Pascale.[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_423" align="aligncenter" width="400"] Back of Pink Pascale[/caption]

Hoping you try this method!

Sew Happy,

Renee

Ney Ney's Stitches



 

Trunk Show

I was asked to provide a trunk show and be a speaker for the American Sewing Guild Chapter meeting in Macon, GA to celebrate National Smocking Month.  It was a treat to see all the ladies sharing a passion for sewing.  I spoke about English Smocking.



English smocking, in my opinion, is an art form.  It requires skill, labor and love to create a garment that can make any child feel unique and special.  English smocking is a craft that is done by hand.....no machines, no mass production! These garments can be passed down for years if quality fabrics are used and construction is done well. I like that my creations have made it through the playground, birthday parties, church, school and even a wayward pair of scissors in the hands of a 5 year old!  We discussed many facets of smocking including fabric selection, the pleating process, garment styles, the difference between geometric and picture smocking and thread choice.

I enjoyed showcasing some of my favorite pieces of "artwork" and sharing smocking secrets with those who were interested!



 

Bishops, Yoke Dresses, Inserts, Bonnets,Rompers, and  Smocked Easter Eggs.....eye candy for smocking and sewing enthusiasts!

 

I look forward to teaching several ladies the art of smocking, whether it be picture smocking or smocking and constructing your first bishop for Easter!  Thank you ladies for the invitation and a special thank you to my "angel" Mrs. Ann for all her help in transporting and setting up my dresses!

Sew Happy,

Renee

Ney Ney's Stitches

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