Reversible Playsuits for Boys

I discovered a great pattern for making playsuits this week.  The pattern I used is a Bonnie Blue Designs named Hunter and Holly.  It was relatively easy to cut and construct AND I made it reversible !!! Much more bang for your buck!!



It really started because I didn't want to cut my 60" white broadcloth that I use for inserts for lining and I was out of any other width white fabric.  So... I thought why not use something colorful?  So I selected a coordinating fabric that actually cost less than my heirloom quality broadcloth and look how cute it turned out!

I machine appliqued two different dinosaur patterns I downloaded from  Just Peachy Applique and Planet Applique.

 



 

 



 

 

 

 

 

In hindsight the only thing I'd investigate the with the next project is putting grippers on the infant sizes.  Whoops!  This was given as a baby and big brother gift for a friend at church.  Sorry for the total undressing of the babe to change a diaper......it's been 20+ years since I had to worry about that and totally forgot!  I was so involved in correctly pulling the lining through to stitch that it slipped my mind completely until I went to the ironing board to press and by that time my thought was I'm NOT ripping it all out!



I do like the way it turned out and love the way the contrasting cuff looks when you roll it up!  Another plus since all babies and toddlers vary in height!  This suit is a 6 month size but with the roll up cuffs can be worn for a long time.

 

 

 

 

 

 



 

 

 

Big Brother's playsuit in a 24 mos.is coordinating but not too "matchy-matchy" (as my daughter disdains).  After all the baby will eventually wear it as well so something a little different for later wear.  The patterns are generous in size.

 

 

 

If Mom so desires them to be "match-matchy" she can because they are reversible!



 

 

 

 

 

I also used several buttons at varying lengths on both sides of the straps for growth adjustment!



 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm thinking of doing a tutorial on buttonholes and button application.  Would that be useful?

Let me know what you think of my "Dino" Project!  I'm already sewing several more....Collegiate, Halloween, Thanksgiving, Christmas.....just can't stop thinking about all the potential projects!

Happy stitching,

Renee

"Stripping" your Floss

I never thought floss could have a wrong way and a right way to be inserted into fabric until recently.  Did you know that floss has a nap (rough side) and no nap (smooth side)?  It makes a difference which way you insert it into your fabric....

Have you ever been frustrated because your thread kept getting tangled and knotted?  Did your finished stitches seem tight and not fluffy?  It's all about how you "strip your floss"!

 

This method is for DMC or Anchor floss,  a 6 strand or ply fiber. The fibers are twisted around each other in the manufacturing process.  Stitches made with thread that has been "stripped" or untwisted results in prettier handwork that allows the light to reflect of of the now flatter threads in your project!

After cutting an 18"  length of floss  ( I usually measure from my wrist to my elbow) from the skein and before stripping it, notice how the end behaves.

Is it frayed open or "blossomed" or is it still wound tightly and intact?  The blossomed end is typically the "nap" side of your floss.  In other words, it has a grain or can be rougher coming through your finer fabrics such as batiste.  Close your eyes and run your fingers down the length of your floss.  Is it rough or prickly?  Start at the opposite end, close your eyes and run your fingers down the length of floss again.  Is it smooth?  I've learned that threading my needle with the "no nap" or smooth floss going into my fabric creates prettier stitches and less knotting.  So you KNOT the "blossom" end.

Holding the floss between your thumb and index finger, use the other hand to lightly tap or rub the end and "blossom" the threads to make it easier to separate.  Still holding the floss in one hand, use the other to grab only one of the six tiny threads that were wound together.  Pull that one thread through your thumb and forefinger.



 

Continue until all six strands are separated or "stripped".

 

 

 

 

Then, based on the stitches you will be using, put the threads back together.



For back smocking- use 2 threads

For geometric smocking- use 3 threads

For picture smocking- use 4 threads

 

 

 

Depending on the project I have going, I strip my floss and then regroup them accordingly.  I wind them around two fingers and lay them in my handy altoid tin that I keep my needles and scissors in.

 

 

 

Happy Stripping!

Renee

 

Picture Smocking Unraveled-Part 2 Holding Rows and Backsmocking

So, you've blocked your piece and are ready to begin smocking!  Go to my Picture Smocking Unraveled-Part 1 to block your piece.  There is still a little "prep" work to be done to ensure "picture perfect" picture smocking. (hehe love the pun?)

Next you need to secure the holding row on the top.  If you're doing an insert you can either remove from the board and smock the holding row or leave it on to make sure you don't pull the stitches too tight and draw up the pleats.  I recommend leaving the piece on the board with pins if you are a beginner or smock tightly.  If you are doing a bishop, LEAVE IT ON THE BOARD!!  You don't want to draw up the pleats with your stitches and make the insert or bishop neck too small.

First, cut a piece of floss about 18 inches long.  I use tip of my middle finger to my elbow as a guide.  Then close your eyes and run your thumb and middle finger down the floss.  Does is glide smoothly or feel like it has little burrs?  Start at the opposite end and repeat.  The direction that the floss was in that felt smooth is the way you want it to go through the eye of your needle so it will glide through the fabric and not catch.  It also makes prettier stitches.

Next, we will strip the floss.  Roll the thread between your fingers so that they separate a little and pull one strand out at a time.  It is easier to do this from the smooth side I mentioned before to keep it from ending up in a "bird's nest" like my picture.

I usually use a thread color to match the fabric I'm working on.  In this case, it is white.  For the holding rows and backsmocking I use 2 strands of floss.  Once you separate each strand, put them back together.

Notice that I rolled the 2 strand together by wrapping them around 2 fingers (above) and then I use my handy dandy altoid tin case to store these threads in as well as my needles (stuck in felt-color coded to discern types of needles) and my little embroidery scissors. (below pic)

Your next step is to smock the holding row by doing the cable stitch all the way across on the right side of your insert/bishop neckline.  Remember the saying "cable up-tail down and cable down-tail up"  just like a cat going up the stairs, his tail is down and a cat going down the stairs, his tail will be up.

then begin your cable stitches.   CABLE DOWN- tail is up and first stitch crosses 2 pleats.

Next CABLE UP (tail is down) and only cross one pleat from now on!

Completed holding rows!





To BACK SMOCK you will turn to the wrong side of your insert (Only do this on an insert, not a bishop- a bishop is designed to spread across the shoulders and neck) and cable on each row.

You will probably run out of thread before crossing the entire piece.  When you need to rethread your needle, just loop through the pleat you just completed and insert the needle through the loop.  Take the needle back through the pleat with just a little "bite" in the fabric and cut the tail off.  When you begin again, pretend you didn't just tie off and put your needle back into the same pleat and continue.

Continue back smocking until all gathering rows have been smocked.  Some prefer to back smock after picture smocking.  I've tried it both ways and prefer the stability that back smocking first provides.

Any questions, please ask! Comments welcome!

Happy Stitching,

Renee

Help Tornado Victims

Recently while doing my regular scrolling through Pinterest, I came across a pin that could make a difference in a young child's life.



"Sewing to Rebuild" is an effort by several handmade businesses to clothe the children that have been affected by this terrible tragedy brought about by the recent tornado in Moore, Oklahoma. Being a hurricane Katrina survivor, I can well relate to no electricity, water or readily available food. I cannot, however, imagine what it would be like to exit a storm shelter or worse yet have hidden in a "safe" area of the house to see my worldly possessions tossed around like matchsticks.

By utilizing your sewing skills these businesses have made it possible to contribute handmade clothing that will be distributed to the young victims of this terrible storm. Once you visit the link, you'll see all the necessary information regarding the distribution and all the instructions to get these items into the right hands. They have even provided free PDF patterns to get you started if you need help with younger sizes.

For my local readers, I am planning on sending a box by the end of the week with a few items I have appliquéd as well as a stuffed animal or two. After all...these children might need a little extra TLC after what they've been through!

Check it out and make a difference in a child's life!

Happy Stitching!

Renee

Antique Sewing

I can remember seeing my "Mammaw"'s treadle sewing machine in the back bedroom of her home.  As I laid in bed, giggling with my sister, the value of all the "old" things and quilts surrounding the machine wasn't appreciated.   The summers I visited her in Bedford, Indiana I always learned something about sewing as she worked on doll clothes for a bisque doll-maker.  I remember her lining one of my bathing suits as a pre-teen with an old slip she had because we discovered it was see-thru when wet!  Her patience as she allowed me to jam up her machine numerous times as I sewed on the un-airconditioned "back-porch".    Now, as an adult, I appreciate the articles of times past and  I have begun a quest for all things vintage and dealing with sewing.

Remembering that machine in her back bedroom made me want an antique treadle sewing machine.  My children have been with me on numerous antiquing and flea market trips (they appreciate the old....maybe I influenced them??) as I hoped to find the "perfect" machine.

After a day of antiquing with my daughter, the  car was packed "to the gills". Our last stop was an antique mall on  Hwy 280 in Birmingham.  I FOUND IT!!!!  A Singer Treadle Sewing Machine that looked fantastic!  I have to admit, I don't know much about them, just my memories spurning this desire to "find" the perfect machine to remind me of my Mammaw and her love for sewing.



We quickly paid for the machine and wrote down the serial number, eager to do some research about the "story" of this machine, and promised to come back the next day with an empty car.  That night, I got on the internet and went to a site that could identify my machine.  My machine was a 1920 "66" model produced in Elizabeth, NJ on April 28.  My mammaw was born in 1911, so, that means my newly acquired machine was produced when she was 9 years old.



After reading up on some sewing machine history, I learned that there was a patent war between Isaac Singer and Elias Howe and Singer ended up losing and having to pay royalties to Howe.  Singer's machines were the first to sew front to back instead of side to side and had the treadle to power it instead of just a hand crank like Howe's.  Interesting, huh?  But back to my machine....

I've ordered a belt and need to find a bobbin case (anyone that has advice on getting an antique machine to work is appreciated) . The hand-wheel will move the needle and feed dogs so I'm in hopes that it will work!

I also picked up a few antique buttons and hankies that day in hopes of embellishing a sweetly smocked dress.



As Mother's Day approaches, I'm very thankful for the love of sewing I inherited from my grandmother and her daughter, my mother.  Now, when I see my "new" antique Singer treadle sewing machine sitting in my sewing studio, I smile and appreciate the "old" things sitting over in a corner.

Happy Stitching,

Renee

 

Picture Smocking for a Boy

It seems like lately all the babies being born that I know are boys!  So....have been doing a little planning and sewing boy clothes.

For my latest project, I used Michie Mooney's Jon-Jon pattern, which is SO easy to follow!  My first step is always to trace the pattern pieces onto lightweight interfacing.  I keep them filed in my pattern notebooks by size.  (If you'd like to learn how to organize your patterns, check out my blog post on Pattern Organization.)

One of the best parts of planning an outfit is selecting fabric!  I have PLENTY of fabric in my stash to choose from, but for this project, I let my daughter pick.  Since the outfit is for one of her friends, I texted pictures of various fabrics and smocking plates to choose from.  We started with ginghams and progressed thru corduroy and finally settled on Robert Kaufman's Remix Ovals in navy blue.   The recipient lives in Florida so this weight will be great for all year.  We also decided to make a 12 month size since most babies receive lots of "little things" and this will be ready for later!

[caption id="attachment_516" align="aligncenter" width="300"] S.S. Noah by Little Memories and Robert Kaufman Remix fabric[/caption]

The plate she chose was S.S. Noah by Little Memories.  I've had that particular plate in my possession since my daughter was little but I never got to make it for her.  It would be so cute done in pastels or brights for a little girl!

Next the fun part begins!  Pleating and smocking!!!  I adapted the pattern to fit a smaller insert so I eliminated 2 rows.  I figured the birds could fly a little bit lower in the sky and it wouldn't look odd, so here we go!  I also changed the colors to suit a primary palette.



My favorite time to smock is at night after supper with a cup of coffee while my husband "surfs" through his tv programs.  (I hate to admit it, but I don't even know which channels are which...he always handles that!:))  I only allow myself to smock until around 8 or 9, otherwise, my brain keeps smocking and creating and I can't sleep!!  The other favorite is in my studio sitting in my cozy chair!  When my children were little, I used their nap time for my sewing time.



So... on with the project!  I usually back smock after I picture smock. (Unless you accidentally leave the template at home and need something to do on a road trip :/)  I have a tendency to smock "tight" so this procedure works best for me.  There is nothing wrong with backsmocking first then doing the picture smocking.

Make a copy of the template on your printer (the reason the template was left at home in the afore mentioned paragraph) and put it with your project.  I use a metal board with magnet strips to keep up with where I am on the project.  If your template doesn't have a numerical count, take the time to count the rows and write the numbers in.  It saves tremendous time and having to rip out stitches later!

As I smock, I use a highlighter to mark out the completed row.  Then I move the magnetic strip down, hang the marker on the metal board to indicate whether I'm to start upside down or right side up! This procedure keeps you on task and also allows you to mark on the template, then throw it away keeping the master intact!

Make sure to keep the rows aligned as you smock, and as I tell my students, each row should KISS the next!  Also, I thread all my needles with all the thread needed for the project and stick in a pincushion.  That way they are handy as I do color changes.



If you didn't backsmock first, backsmock the areas that aren't picture smocked.  (Another reason I wait until after to backsmock...I don't have to do an area twice)



Then construction, complete with lining and cute buttons( I used two together-an orange and red) and VOILA! Cute baby boy Jon-Jon!

The finished project and baby gift ready to be mailed!  Boy's clothing can be just as fun to sew!



Where do you like to smock?  When?  Do you backsmock first or last?  I'd love to hear from you!

Happy Stitches!

Renee

 

Sister, Sister

Well, I've definitely neglected my blog the past few weeks.  I have been sewing and traveling so on my tick list of things to do, the blog fell to the bottom.



I did complete a "sister" dress to one I previously used in my Scalloped Hem Tutorial.  Let me share...

Here is the "older" sister dress, size 4:

[caption id="attachment_422" align="aligncenter" width="199"] Front of Pink Pascale.[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_423" align="aligncenter" width="199"] Back of Pink Pascale[/caption]

I used the Pascale pattern purchased from Sew Beautiful Collection at Martha Pullen.  The fabric is actually quilting fabric.  The pink dot is by Moda and the paisley I've had in my stash waiting for the perfect dress!

Now, the "little sister", size 12 months dress:





I chose to make the dresses similar but give each little girl her own identity.  After all, the "little sister" always gets the hand-me-downs.  It is important that she not have to wear the same dress twice!



I created a smocking template to match the colors in the dress, but not overwhelm it.  After all, the request was "pink".  I think I covered that!

I used the same bias on the sleeve edge as the scalloped hem.  The smocking design is also made to imitate the insert.

Good thing I saved some dotted fabric.....just learned sister #3 will be here late summer!

I've decided that with any orders, whether custom or pre made, if you send a picture to me of the child wearing the outfit, I will give a 15% discount on the next order placed within 9 months!  You can send the pictures to nnstitches@gmail.com.  Check out the gallery tab for ideas or my Etsy shop for purchases.

Happy sewing,

Renee